Chilling time

5:54pm Friday 28th March 2008

CARIBBEAN life is simply breathtaking, blissful and idyllic.

Coconut palms frame turquoise seas and white sands, and rum punch flows through the friendly natives' veins. It became my sun-soaked paradise within minutes.

I was lucky enough to fly on Virgin Atlantic's upper class deck. Behind the curtain lurked Branson's on-board mixologist - bar man - Mark Plumridge, who took residence at the neat flight deck bar for five of the eight-and-a-half hours we were air-borne. His captivating skill with a cocktail shaker and a bottle of Bombay Sapphire gin was enough to keep me out of my convertible leather lounger/bed all but at meal times.

By the time the steel band greeted us at St Lucia's Hewanorra International Airport, just after 7pm, I had left the rat race far behind and was relaxed into island life.

St Lucia is an uncut gem amid the Caribbean's Windward chain of islands. It has a lush volcanic landscape that spans just 239 sq miles. The one-and-a-half hour minibus journey from the airport, through basic hill roads, bore witness to the simplicity of native life, with homes and bars patched together from local materials. Clusters of teens sit out on the porches - "they're liming," said the driver, "it means chilling". There's a lot of that on the islands.

At the north of the island lies the Windjammer Landing Villa Beach Resort. Staying with three others, our Estate Villa - with north, south, east and west suites - boasted a private pool and lawn with stunning views of the island and across to neighbouring Martinique. Guests can enjoy a private beach, spa treatments and a full entertainment programme for the warm nights - temperatures are in the high 70s in the winter months and 80s in summer.

The following day, I discovered the essence of the island's romance, one hour away by boat, at the cliff-side Anse Chastanet resort. The west coast complex is nestled below the island's imposing twin-peak mountains, the Pitons (also the namesake for the local beer.) With beach attendants who spritz guests with cooling peppermint spray, and reefs and dive sites metres off-shore, it is a favourite among celebrities, including Harrison Ford, John Malkovich and The Da Vinci Code author, Dan Brown. The 47 terracotta and natural wood suites, some featuring outdoor showers, ensure it tops the list with honeymooners too. Room 7F (the Royal Palm) has a panoramic view and a 10-month waiting list.

The resort is outshone only by its newly-opened on-site sister complex, Jade Mountain.

Designed by Chastanet's architect-owner Nick Troubetzkoy and created by his local workforce, the 24 suites cost $1.1million (£0.5m) each to build and have in-room infinity pools and views of the Caribbean Sea that are pure perfection, for those who can afford the $950 (£480)-upwards-a-night price tag.

The Chastanet/Jade Mountain resort has a water sports and activity centre and the picturesque town of Soufriere, with its waterfall, sulphur springs and rare drive-in volcano, is only minutes away by boat and taxi.

The island's tiny capital, Castries, is busy but fairly unimpressive. Party-goers flock to the bars and clubs of Rodney Bay at night, while fine-diners will be delighted by the imaginative "Eurobbean fusion" menu at celebrated chef Bobo Bergstrom's The Edge restaurant.

Day three saw a spot of island-hopping. A 40-minute flight aboard the Caribbean Star airline had me in Barbados' Grantley Adams International Airport - greeted in true Caribbean style by rum punch, or "jungle juice" as the Barbadians call it.

The drive through the limestone-coral streets is dynamic in comparison to St Lucia. The colonial, white-wash and pastel builds are bright and inviting, and never far from the island's 70-miles of beaches, 1,200 rum shops or 365 churches. "One for every day of the year," the guide told me.

The afternoon was spent liming on-board a catamaran with a cooler-box full of beers and tropical fruit, the perfect way to test the waters of island life. If you break from sunbathing just once, it should be to swim with giant turtles in the ocean reefs. Tempt them with tiny fish out of your hand and they will play for hours - a joy to interact with and an exhilarating experience.

Pulling the boat into shore required a little more exertion but watching the glowing orange sunset behind was not to be missed, and definitely to be shared.

Our hotel for the night was The House, a 33-room boutique run by a former chamber made from North London and part of the Tamarind Cove resort, in the western parish of St James. From the torch-lit reception and beach, to the deep-wood and white linen décor, it was seductive. Tamarind manager Leroy Browne - you could not make it up - hosted pre-dinner cocktails in the resort's popular Daphne's Bar, before a five-minute taxi ride to the island's renowned The Cliff restaurant. Waves lap the torch-lit cliff while diners sit at tables around two, semi-circular storeys and enjoy the stunning view and fine cuisine - the local mahi mahi fish is mouth-watering.

Despite a daiquiri hangover, it was worth rising early the next day for an island safari tour. A zebra-print jeep throws you through Barbados' eleven parishes, tropical forest and sugar cane history, stopping at the serene Little Bay to dip your toes in the spray. I'd recommend taking the trip on a Sunday when you will hear the sounds of gospel pouring from local churches in the morning, and see the locals sharing beers while they work on their homes in the afternoon.

Enjoying a late lunch at the roadside Fish Pot restaurant, where white wooden shutters open on to Little Good Harbour's picture-perfect ocean view, I toasted the end of a glorious break - but three days left me thirsty for so much more. At least there was a spot of mid-air mixology to ease me into the flight home.

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